Who cast that first fateful tomato that started the La Tomatina revolution? The reality is no one knows. Maybe it was an anti-Franco rebellion, or a carnival that got out of hand. According to the most popular version of the story, during the 1945 festival of Los Gigantes (a giant paper mâché puppet parade), locals were looking to stage a brawl to get some attention. They happened upon a vegetable cart nearby and started hurling ripe tomatoes. Innocent onlookers got involved until the scene escalated into a massive melee of flying fruit. The instigators had to repay the tomato vendors, but that didn't stop the recurrence of more tomato fights—and the birth of a new tradition.
Fearful of an unruly escalation, authorities enacted, relaxed, and then reinstated a series of bans in the 1950s. In 1951, locals who defied the law were imprisoned until public outcry called for their release. The most famous effrontery to the tomato bans happened in 1957 when proponents held a mock tomato funeral complete with a coffin and procession. After 1957, the local government decided to roll with the punches, set a few rules in place, and embraced the wacky tradition.
Though the tomatoes take center stage, a week of festivities lead up to the final showdown. It's a celebration of Buñol's patron saints, the Virgin Mary and St. Louis Bertrand, with street parades, music, and fireworks in joyous Spanish fashion. To build up your strength for the impending brawl, an epic paella is served on the eve of the battle, showcasing an iconic Valencian dish of rice, seafood, saffron, and olive oil.
Today, this unfettered festival has some measure of order. Organizers have gone so far as to cultivate a special variety of unpalatable tomatoes just for the annual event. Festivities kick off around 10 a.m. when participants race to grab a ham fixed atop a greasy pole. Onlookers hose the scramblers with water while singing and dancing in the streets. When the church bell strikes noon, trucks packed with tomatoes roll into town, while chants of "To-ma-te, to-ma-te!" reach a crescendo.
Then, with the firing of a water cannon, the main event begins. That's the green light for crushing and launching tomatoes in all-out attacks against fellow participants. Long distance tomato lobbers, point-blank assassins, and medium range hook shots. Whatever your technique, by the time it's over, you will look (and feel) quite different. Nearly an hour later, tomato-soaked bombers are left to play in a sea of squishy street salsa with little left resembling a tomato to be found. A second cannon shot signals the end of the battle. | 是谁当初在番茄大战中首当其冲,掷出不同寻常的第一枚番茄,结果开启了这一传统?事情原委自然无从知晓。这也许是源自反抗佛朗哥的叛乱,或是一发不可收拾的嘉年华狂欢。据流传最广的说法称,在1945年的巨人像节(跟随一个巨大纸偶的游行活动)期间,当地民众希望上演一出闹剧以吸引眼球。事有凑巧,一旁有个装满蔬菜的货车,于是他们开始相互投掷熟透的番茄。周围无辜的围观群众也被卷入其中,结果事态进一步升级,发展为相互投掷水果的大混战。煽动肇事者只得赔偿番茄小贩的损失,但已无法阻挡更多番茄大战相继出现——于是一个新传统就此诞生。 由于担心局面失控,政府当局曾在20世纪50年代颁布一系列禁令,不过这些禁令历经反复,先是放松管制,继而又重新来过。时至1951年,还有过当地民众因为违抗此项禁令,结果锒铛入狱的事件发生,后来还是因为公众的强烈抗议,涉案人等方得以重获自由。1957年也曾有过一次对番茄禁令最著名的大胆挑衅,活动支持者举行了一次模拟番茄葬礼,抬着棺木四处游行。到1957年之后,当地政府决定还是顺应民意,于是出台相关法规,算是接受了这一古怪传统。 随着番茄成为万众聚焦的所在,为期一周的庆祝活动进入最后的精彩环节。这一活动旨在纪念布尼奥尔的守护者圣母玛丽亚和圣路易斯•伯特兰,人们身着喜庆的西班牙传统节日盛装,在着音乐和烟花的映衬下,走上街头游行。为能在第二天的番茄大战中精力充沛,一显身手,前一天晚上人们会用丰盛的西班牙什锦肉菜饭款待自己,这款经典的巴伦西亚式美食由米饭、海鲜、藏红花和橄榄油精心烹制而成。 如今,这个随性自在的节日是还自有其规矩方圆。组织者甚至专门为此盛事培育了一种不宜食用的特殊番茄品种,特供每年一度的番茄大战之用。庆祝活动于上午10点前后拉开帷幕,参赛者会竞相争夺固定在一根滑腻柱顶的火腿,而围观群众则涌向街头载歌载舞,并向蹒跚爬行的人们身上喷水助兴。教堂的钟声于正午时分准时敲响,满载番茄的卡车轰隆隆地驶入市区,众人高喊着“To-ma-te, to-ma-te(番茄,番茄)!”将节日气氛推向高潮。 接着,随着水炮的开火,番茄大战正式打响。水炮声标志着番茄大战的全面爆发。远距离高抛、近距离射杀以及中距离勾手投掷,无论您的投射水准高下,此时这些已然毫不重要,只需尽情体验这与众不同的快感,大家的模样自然也会迥然不同。近一个小时后,浑身挂满番茄汁的投弹手在黏糊糊的街头,在番茄酱海洋中嬉戏喧闹,四下里几乎找不到一个形状完整的番茄。只听第二次水炮打响,番茄大战正式落下帷幕。 |